Maui Wowie

When you grow tired of the glitz and hustle-bustle of Honolulu, it's time to focus on the natural beauty the islands have to offer. That, after all, is what makes Hawaii such a distictive destination in the American landscape. Mother Nature pulls out all the stops throughout the Hawaiian islands, but Maui and Kauai are my personal favorites.

On Maui, you'll likely be drawn to the major resort areas, which is fine. Last time, I stayed at the Ritz-Carlton in Kapalua, and it was gorgeous. Expensive, but worth it. And the Kapalua Bay area is fantastic, if a bit touristy. My parents stayed in Kapalua on a number of their 'fam' trips back in the '80's. They loved it, and so do I.

One of the chief selling points of the area is its proximity to other Maui destinations: It's just a short drive to Lahaina, which has some of the best beaches in all of Hawaii. It's one of the surfing capitals of the U.S., as evidenced by the hundreds of surfers that traipse through the town with their surfboards in tow. While you're there, be sure to check out the Banyan tree in the center of town. It takes up an entire city block, and is really a sight to behold.
I recommend having lunch at Cheeseburger in Paradise and ordering . . . well, I don't even have to say it now, do I? Wash down your grub with a local beer while you look out over the water and watch the surfers roll in.

Another point of interest is Paia. Not for the faint of heart, Paia bills itself as an "artist's town," which is true enough, but there's more to it than that. Within ten minutes of our arrival, we were greeted by locals offering various "herbal remedies" for whatever ailed us, along with services like hair-braiding or body-piercing. The grittiness of the town renders it a walk on the wild side; but sometimes that's just what's needed to liven things up. Besides, Paia has one of Maui's few nude beaches, which is always a draw for me.

Rainy Day Fun in Honolulu

I've pointed out the most popular attractions in Honolulu, and the majority of them are outdoors. And why shouldn't they be, given that Hawaii is one of the most beautiful places on earth?

Unlike Snyder, it tends to rain frequently in Hawaii -- on my last trip, it rained virtually every single morning, but stopped by the time we went down for breakfast. But what to do if it doesn't stop? The Hawaiian islands saw a good week's worth of storms about a month ago, so how do you entertain yourself if that contingency happens?

Luckily, Honolulu is rife with things to do that aren't sunny-weather dependent. Even if the weather is picture-perfect for your entire trip, you'll want to check these out:

Shopping: I know, I know -- you don't go to Hawaii to shop, right? You might change your position for the bargain, and I've managed to find some in Honolulu. The primary shopping venue is Ala Moana Boulevard, and it tends to be overrun with tourists. But if you pop in to the Ala Moana Center, it will not only provide a shelter from the rain, but you can find veritable steals from the likes of Armani, Banana Republic and local Hawaiian brand stores. The last time I was there, I walked away with an Armani silk shirt for $30. I kept expecting to be stopped by the police for stealing. Ala Moana frequently stages peformances of native Hawaiian dancers, so you'll get a dose of authentic "Hawaiian" while you're there.

Museums: Again, not what normally comes to mind when you think of Hawaii, but this should really be part of your vacation. The Bishop Museum is great for adults and kids alike, as it has a large focus on the flora and fauna of the islands. I've seen people actually bring in strange-looking plants for their scientists to identify, and they're happy to do it! They also document the history of the islands, including the arrival of the first missionaries and their influence on subsequent cultural development.

For more purely artistic inclinations, be sure to see the Honolulu Academy of Arts. Their special exhibitions are fantastic, and tend to focus exclusively on Hawaiian artists. They also have one of the largest collections of Oceana to be found anywhere in the world.

In addition to these, there's also the USS Bowfin Submarine, which has been made into a museum; as well as the Hawaii Maritime Center, which any Navy veteran will love. Here's a run-down of the best museums in Honolulu. Enjoy!

Thanks to Champuru and Shimown for the photos!

Over the Pond

Now that I've written about San Francisco and the wine country a bit, I've built up enough momentum to propel me over the pond to . . . (drumroll, please) Hawaii!

Back when I was at Snyder High and my folks owned the travel agency, they went to Hawaii a couple of times on "familiarization" trips that were paid for by the airlines. As the name implies, the purpose was to familiarize them with various destinations, thereby enabling them to promote and sell it more effectively. There was only one problem with these 'fam' trips: I didn't get to go!!

I finally made my virgin trip a number of years ago, and since then I've gone on another occasion. On both trips, I did my best to make up for lost time! I've got all kinds of insider tips, but I'll start out with the basics.

Presumably you'll fly into the island of Oahu, home of the city of Honolulu. Regardless of your feelings about this tourist mecca, you need to stay a few days because it's an important part of any first trip to Hawaii. If you can, book a hotel on or near famous Waikiki Beach. It costs more to stay on the beach of course, but it's worth it to wake up and see that iconic shoreline with Diamond Head in the distance. My favorite hotel is the Royal Hawaiian, also known as the "Pink Palace." On my last trip, Carol Channing was staying there with us, and we got her autograph as we left! Another popular choice in lodging is the Halekulani, which is near the very top of the luxury hotel food chain.

One of the benefits of staying on near Waikiki is its proximity to attractions that you'll want to see. Because I was born on December 7th, I felt obligated to tour Pearl Harbor, and I was glad I did. But I was also happy that I followed the suggestion of our concierge and went to Hanauma Bay, and I certainly don't regreat seeing Diamond Head. In short, there's tons to do in and around Honolulu besides lolling on the beach (which is, of course, a perfectly acceptable passtime on vacation). To save you some effort, here are some of my favorite attractions in Honolulu.

Thanks to garyhymes and photoluluguy for the photos!

La Comida Mexicana

I know I've already written about Berkeley; but Mexican food is a topic that's near to every Snyderite's heart, and I just discovered a GEM that y'all will all want to check out if you're in the Bay Area.

I have this friend in San Francisco who kidnapped me the other day, took me over the Bay Bridge, and sat me down at Mario's La Fiesta on Telegraph Avenue in Berkeley. He's been going there for thirty years and just raved about it. Being from Texas, I had low expectations, but boy-howdy was I happily surprised! They've got some of the best-tasting guacamole this side of the Colorado River, and their chiles rellenos rival those at the Spanish Inn (sorry, Papa Chon, but they do!). In California, "Mexican" typically means lots of sour cream and an emphasis on burritos, but this place was very reminiscent of the Tex-Mex I grew up eating. Only Spanish was spoken in the kitchen, which is always a good sign. And the best part? Their prices are virtually identical to those at the Spanish Inn. In other words, very inexpensive for the Bay Area.

If you're in town for more than a few days and get a hankerin', it's well worth the short drive over the bridge. Plus, it turns out there's a whole slew of good restaurants in Berkeley, so you could easily make a day trip out of it. Besides Telegraph Avenue, which is lined with all manner of shops and close to the Berkeley campus, there's also Fourth Street, which is presently all ablaze with Christmas decorations. There's lots of chi-chi shops that sell silly products at ludicrous prices (we saw a 'gnome stump' for $1,300), but there are also some one-of-a-kind stores that mere mortals can afford. I went into a lighting store that had fantastic hand-made lamps, each one unique, and not a single one over $100.

One cautionary note: Despite the zillion places to shop,acquire stuff, and spend your money, the Fourth Street shopping district seems to have only ONE public restroom, which is at Peet's Coffee. Consequently, I've come up with a plan to make my first million. You can check it out here, just don't steal my idea!

Thanks to alicewebber for the Mario's photo!

When in Rome . . .

From my wilder days in Snyder, I know there are some of you that like to live a tad dangerously, to walk on the dark side, or to just immerse yourself in some off-the-beaten path kinds of experiences. There's no better time to do it than a vacation of course, because no one is around to witness your depravity!

Seriously, San Francisco abounds with experiences that don't appear in Travel Guides because they don't belong there. I'm talking primarily about those things that only the 'indigenous tribes' partake of, the activities that comprise the life of your average San Franciscan. In my view, these are important elements of any trip -- if I want to truly capture the flavor of any place I visit, then I need to experience life the way locals do. Can you imagine if someone came to Snyder and all they did was eat at McDonald's? They'd have no idea what being a Snyderite is all about! When in Rome . . .

In San Francisco, take a chance and indulge in one of the myriad hole-in-the-wall tacquerias. This won't be too much of a leap for West Texans, but the food is different from what we're used to. There's less emphasis on cheese, more on sour cream. And they're not particularly big on fried anything . . . think burritos, tacos (not the crispy kind like at Spanish Inn), think lots of cilantro. Most important: Think lunch under five bucks. Who can complain about that?

Getting a bit further afield from a Snyder 'comfort zone,' you'll want to try one of the zillions of Asian dives that line the streets of SF. I'm not talking about the nice, sit-down places; I'm talking about the late-night Korean noodle houses, Vietnamese pho shops and Chinese diners that are strewn about the streets like so much wrapping paper on Christmas day. These may look frightening, because the food can be totally unfamiliar; but if you go into one, look around: The people eating there will all be vibrant and healthy, so if it works for them, it probably won't kill you. I sometimes seized with a craving for Banh Mi (little Vietnamese sandwiches) which usually sell for about $3; not to mention Pho -- vermicelli noodle soup with various meats, onions, basil and Srirach sauce to spice it up. Deelish!

On the 'entertainment' side of the off-the-wall tour, no trip to San Francisco would be complete without a trip to the Castro. Home to a large portion of the city's gay community, it's colorful to say the least. On a recent visit, I passed a bookstore that had employed some "helpers" to promote some new books: Each was a 250-pound football player type, all dolled up in royal regalia like the Queen of England. Only with beards. You'll want to stop in at Hot Cookie for a little snack, and further up on Castro street, be sure to hit Naia, home of the best gelatto in the universe. Try their pumpkin seed gelatto if they have it.

If you want to witness some uniquely San Francisco nightlife, stop by Martuni's on the cusp of the Castro and Mission neighborhoods. It's a wonderful old piano bar, and in many respects it epitomizes the eclectic hodgepodge of people that comprise San Francisco: You'll see a mix of straight and gay, young and old, professional and . . . well, everything. The last time I was there an older gay man was singing show tunes (badly) at the piano, and he was followed by a bunch of college girls who started belting out a Bruce Springstein number. The latter was met with raucous applause from the audience, except for one elderly gentleman in a dress, who glowered until they switched to Rod Stewart's "Do Ya Think I'm Sexy."

If you happen to be a piano bar fanatic, there are a number of others in the Bay Area, including some as far afield as Walnut Creek. It's a bit of a hike from SF, but I just love Bing Crosby's Piano Bar, with its unsurprising emphasis on that singer's music. Ol' Bing and I had a similar range, so I can sing along with the best of 'em to his music without missing too many notes. To me, the chance to sing "White Christmas" makes it worth the trip to Walnut Creek, but if you're not the sing-along lunatic that I am, there are a number of other good places to try while you're there.

Thanks to bayernyc and San Francisco Bay Guardian for the photos!

Not in Every Travel Guide

Back in San Francisco, there are a couple of attractions I feel obliged to promote because most travel guides don't emphasize them enough. As a former Scurry County resident, I think I've got a good feel for the things Snyderites would enjoy in San Francisco, which typically would be those attractions that are not well-represented in Snyder.

I'll start with San Francisco's beaches, because we don't have too many of those in Snyder. San Francisco isn't a 'beach town' in the traditional sense -- if you're planning on frolicking in the waves, you're apt to be disappointed, as the water is a wee bit chilly even in the summer. Nonetheless, SF does have some of the most beautiful beaches in the country to my mind; it's just that the emphasis is more on the grandeur of nature instead of working on your tan.

My personal favorite is Baker Beach, which is right on the edge of Seacliff and affords stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Be sure to bring your camera! This is one of the most photo-worthy spots in all of California, and I've never understood why the place isn't overflowing with tourists. Mind you, I appreciate the solitude, which is a big part of why I go. Years ago I lived on the shoreline of Connecticut, and I used to walk down to the water's edge every night just before bed. I guess it was my own version of meditation, and I like to do much the same thing on Baker Beach at sunset. Not long ago, I met a very nice woman on the beach. We got to talking for awhile, and she invited me to a holiday party at her house. Her friendliness and hospitality reminded me of home.

One warning about Baker Beach: The far northern end of it is 'clothing optional,' so don't be startled if you see someone in the buff!

Switching gears a bit, I'll turn my attention to a little dose of culture. Specifically, I'll speak to San Francisco's contribution to the performing arts, which rivals that of any major American city. I don't make that statement lightly either; as many of you know, I lived in New York City for a number of years, home of the Met, the NYC Ballet, and the New York Philharmonic. The Big Apple's cultural scene is extraordinary, but San Francisco has a thriving performing arts community too. And unlike New York, if you go to the opera or the ballet in San Francisco, you'll still have money in your wallet!

Most recently, I was at the San Francisco Opera and saw the Puccini opera "La Rondine" This is one of Puccini's lesser-known numbers, and I theorize it's not often performed because it's neither a comedic opera nor a true tragedy. It does end poorly for one jilted fellow; but alas, but nobody dies. This piece is really a one-woman show, as it's all about the soprano Magda, who was wonderfully sung by Angela Gheorghiu. Midway through the first act, I was moved to tears by the beautiful "Doretta" aria, after which the audience sprung to its feet for an impromptu standing ovation.

The sets for this opera were magnificent, and they rivaled anything I've ever seen at the Met. When you consider that we paid only $50 apiece for our 12-row center orchestra seats, the San Francisco Opera is a real bargain.

Across the street in another of the War Memorial and Performing Arts Center buildings is the home of both the San Francisco Symphony and the San Francisco Ballet. Both are vibrant, well-respected companies, and well worth investigation if you find yourself in the City by the Bay.

Thanks to chieukiecfu for the photo!

South to Palo Alto

Years ago I put in an application for grad school at Stanford, and you can imagine my surprise when I actually got in. "What? Lil' ol' me?!" Obviously they hadn't heard about my youthful shenanigans in Snyder.

Anyway, I knew a number of professors who had done their graduate study at Stanford, and the unanimous recommendation was to choose another school because of the town of Palo Alto itself. As most of you know, I opted become a Damn Yankee and head to the east coast; but now I'm mystified as to the aversion to Palo Alto -- I had the opportunity to visit recently, and the town was just lovely in every respect.

I took the CalTrain down from San Francisco, and we made the 35-mile trip in just under 45 minutes. The train was of the double-decker variety, reminding me of those buses in London, but much less touristy. It was cold and drizzly when I left San Francisco, but Palo Alto was sunny, warm and redolent of palm trees. I felt like I had arrived in the tropics! (minus the humidity, of course).

Stanford is directly across from the train station, and they operate a free shuttle that takes you all around the campus. Additionally, there are a number of hotels within a three-minute walk of the station -- I saw both a Marriott and a Westin -- so if you've got a student thinking of going to Stanford, the transportation and lodging issues are ideal.

The town itself is quaint and laid-back in typical California style, but with the gentrified trappings that you'd expect given the influence of Stanford's endowment and the billions of dollars in IT-based companies that call Palo Alto home. I went out to meet some new friends, and on our way to lunch we passed the headquarters of Facebook; it's unassuming storefront gave no clue as to the kazillion-dollar business operating inside.

The town was bustling with people, but the collective energy felt subdued, as though everyone was focused on the serious ventures of business or academics. I saw a nice mix of Silicon Valley geeky billionaire types, long-haired students with piercings and tattoos, a few serious, grim-faced academic sorts who were hyped-up on caffeine from the local coffee house, and the odd professor or two. In other words, I felt right at home (except for the billionaire part, of course). I got a nice overall vibe from the town; and looking back, I regret that I didn't pay Stanford a visit before I chose to head east for school.

One thing I didn't get to check out adequately was the restaurant scene. My friends chose a Thai place for lunch, and they served up an excellent meal. From all appearances, Palo Alto is a foodie haven, which isn't surprising given the composition of its population. I did some investigating, and tracked down a list of pit stops and watering holes I want to check out on my next visit.

. . . and Just Across the Bay . . .

Native San Franciscans (or is it San Franciso-ites?) make frequent reference to "the Bay Area," and with good reason: There's much to see and do in the cities that surround the San Francisco Bay. One of my favorites is the city of Berkeley, home of the eponymous branch of the University of California.

The ethos of the University sets the tone for much of the town in that it's a liberal, artsy, cultural destination . . . in all the good ways! There are over a dozen art galleries in this small little town, and I find them to be much less pretentious (and less expensive!) than their San Francisco counterparts. Mere mortals like me can actually afford to buy art here! And if you stroll about in the areas surrounding the Berkeley campus, you'll likely encounter the random performing musician, and occasionally some impropmtu theater. On my last visit, we stumbled across an enactment of "Queen Lear!" Jerry Worsham would have loved it.

Berkeley is also a great place to immerse yourself in the "locavore" phenomenon. In case you don't know, the term refers to those who eat only local products, including not only the expected fruits and vegetables, but also meats, fish and poultry. In Berkeley, there's a fantastic Farmer's Market held every Saturday from 10am 'till 2pm directly across from Martin Luther King, Jr. Park. There's another on Thursdays at the intersection of Shattuck and Rose, and they sell only organic produce.

The latter is just around the corner from Chez Panisse, which is one of my favorite restaurants in the universe. I know, I know -- it has a reputation for being expensive and fancy-schmancy. But there are TWO separate dining rooms: The original, more formal downstairs dining room (book WAY in advance if you want to go), and the newer, more casual upstairs cafe. I've been to both, and it's the latter that I enjoy most; not because I'm a cheapskate (they have a great $30 3-course prix fixe), but because it's more fun. The last time I was there a young man at the next table proposed marriage to his girlfriend (she said 'yes!'), and there was an accordionist playing in the entryway, much to the delight of Berkeley locals, who danced away with abandon. If you're lucky, you might even see Alice Waters herself.

I should mention another benefit Berkeley offers: It has no shortage of hotels, and on average they are far less expensive than those in San Francisco. Because it's just a short jaunt across the bay from SF, you might consider actually staying in Berkeley and reaping those savings . . . which you can then spend on entertainment and dining! Here are some of my favorite Berkeley hotels.




Thanks to Eron One and fuzuoko for the photos!

Eating, Drinking and Sleeping in the City by the Bay

San Francisco abounds with hotels, and for the unitiated, the number of choices can be overwhelming. You can always stay at one of the major chain hotels and do fine, but I hope that by digging into my own experiences I can steer you to something more memorable.



On that first trip to San Francisco 500 years ago, my folks and I stayed at the Hyatt Embarcadero. Seen through the eyes of a teenager, I thought it was just about the most impressive place I'd ever seen, what with all the glass elevators shooting up and down the atrium walls. I haven't stayed at this hotel since then, but recently I did stop by and it looked exactly the same as it did when I was a wee young 'un. If you're an art fan, there's an impressive sculpture in the lobby done by Charles Perry. It's too big for your living room, but it makes for a nice Kodak moment.



Nowadays, I tend towards hotels with a bit more uniqueness, and my favorite in San Francisco is the charming boutique Hotel Rex. It's located right near Union Square, which is one of the absolute "musts" on your list of places to go in SF. The Rex has some fun quirkiness to it (all dolled up in red, for example), but it still has enough class that you could bring the grandparents along. They've got a health club on site, and they even have those little refrigerators in the room. Best of all, their prices are great.

If you were smart enough to buy stock in Patterson-UTI before they went stratospheric, then you might want to splurge on the Four Seasons. Everyone knows what to expect from this brand, and their SF location won't disappoint: From the minute you walk in the door, you'll be treated like royalty. No detail is overlooked, not a single need remains unmet. Their concierge told me their policy is to never say 'no' to a guest request, which set my mind to wandering about certain 'wishes' of dubious legality. . . but I digress.

That covers both the medium and the high ends of San Francisco lodging, but there are of course dozens of others. Here's a list of some of your best bets for lodging in San Francisco.

As far as dining goes, I could write all day about the zillions of eateries in SF. One thing I will point out: Despite my fond memory of that chowder in an edible bowl, I would recommend steering clear of Fisherman's wharf for dining. It's not that the food there is bad, it's just that places tend to be a bit touristy there, and consequently more expensive. You get more (and better) for your money if you venture out into other neighborhoods. One of my favorites is Zuni Cafe, which is a fun mix of traditional-type foods and the 'locavore' phenomenon. They're famous for their wood-grilled chicken, and you really should try it. I'll admit I was skeptical when I placed my order (it takes 45 minutes to prepare!), but the wait was well worth it . . . the bird was succulent and tender, and the bread stuffing to die for!

Another excellent destination is the Slanted Door. They're largely known as a Vietnamese restaurant; but in reality they're more 'nouveau pan-Asian.' I recommend going for lunch, because the place is located right on the water at the ferry terminal and the views are fantastic. Plus, the interior is right out of Architectural Digest (be sure to check out their bathrooms!), and my fellow diners tended towards the 'sleek and beautiful' set. Don't miss the glass noodles with crab. . . deelish!

More on this later. All this talk of food has got me hungry. . .

San Francisco: Tony Bennett Isn't the Only One Who Left His Heart

I first went to San Francisco with my parents when I was about fourteen and still living in Ira. What I remember most are sights that are still high up on my list of things to do: Fisherman's Wharf and the cable cars. To me, those cable cars were about the most fascinating form of transport I'd ever seen, because all I'd witnessed in Snyder were pickups! And my most salient memory of Fisherman's Wharf was an enormous clam chowder served in an edible sourdough bowl. I can still taste it!

Those attractions still remain, but to them I'd add a few. Naturally there's the Golden Gate Bridge, an iconic part of the American landscape if ever there was one. I actually think the bridge and the bay have a synergistic beauty -- put that bridge anywhere else and it wouldn't be nearly as impressive; and as stunning as the bay is on its own, it's even more so with the majestic sweep of the bridge. A troubling, yet interesting factoid: More people commit suicide here than any other place in the world, averaging nearly one a week. Talk about leaving your heart . . .

Alcatraz is admittedly touristy, but it's a destination no first-time San Francisco visitor should pass up. But be warned: It's operated by the federal government, so if there's any kind of governmental shut-down (as there was when I went at age 14), it won't be open! I recommend a 'semi-organized' tour, meaning some degree of professional guidance and commentary, but also a fair amount of self-guided wandering.

If you feel like a dose of culture, check out the newly-revamped San Francisco MoMA (Musem of Modern Art). The building itself is a work of art, and their collection ain't shabby either, with everything from Matisse, Bracque and deKoonig to uber-modern abstract expressionists.

Here's a rundown of some of my favorite San Francisco attractions.

California Wine Country

I'll start out with my most recent vacation, which was a jaunt to San Francisco. Lots and lots to do there, but one of my most memorable experiences was a side trip to wine country north of the city.

A few highlights: We started out in the Russian River Valley, where we stopped off in Guerneville for lunch and a FAB blues festival . . . I think it happens every year in mid-June. Then we took in the winery at DeLoach Vineyards. The folks there are so friendly, I thought I was back in Snyder!

After that, we headed to south to Healdsburg, which has one of the most beautiful town squares in the United States. Be sure to bring your wallet, because it's overflowing with shops and stores full of irresistible items that tend toward the pricey side. It's a great place to do some holiday shopping, because almost everything you'll see is one-of-a-kind. And be sure to stop in one of the local restaurants and have some barbecued oysters. Yes, you read it right -- barbecued. They're delicious!

From there, we headed down to Sonoma and tried to get in for dinner at the fabled Girl and Fig; but alas, there was an hour wait. Instead, we went across the street to the new El Dorado Kitchen and had a meal that was nothing short of amazing.

After that, it was time to turn in, so we headed to Napa and our room at the John Muir Inn. The rooms were very comfortable, and the innkeeper gracious. I'd definitely stay again; but if I had more money, there's a whole host of places I'd like to stay in Napa. We checked out one of these picks -- the Candlelight Inn -- and it was love at first sight!

The next morning, it was back to San Francisco. More on that next time. . . .

Greetings, Snyderites!

I grew up near Snyder (in Ira, to be exact), and in the twenty-plus years since I left the nest, I've lived all over the country, and managed to do a fair amount of overseas travel to boot.

When I was growing up here, I used to marvel with wide-eyed wonder when friends would return from their travels to exotic places . . . Jamaica! Mexico! Even Europe! Imagine. Then my folks opened a travel agency in town, and thus began my enduring love of travel.

In that spirit, I want to use this blog to share some of my travel experiences . . . and to hear yours! I'm just a humble traveler from Snyder, and I want to give something back . . . .