On my last trip to Hawaii I would have been content to stay on Maui the entire time. But my friends were insistent that we journey to the Big Island, a move to which I agreed only reluctantly. I'm glad they persuaded me, because it represents Hawaii in ways that aren't captured by other island. . . .
For one thing, the Big Island is home of the only coffee crop on American soil! The locals capitalize on this fact, bombarding tourists with messages all over the island: Buy coffee! Drink coffee! Drink more coffee! Buy some and ship it home to your friends! Don’t forget your poor Aunt Clara in the nursing home! Here, have a 10-gallon cup of Kona! Drink up! Support Hawaiian coffee growers! Blah! I fell under the spell of this subtle advertising and quickly found myself in the throes of a five-day caffeine buzz.
Actually, it was the smell that got me. That rich, Kona coffee that costs about nine zillion dollars a pound gives off an aroma that’s irresistible; and the smell along justifies the price. But you don’t have to pay the shipping premium in Hawaii, so I stocked up. And drank up. And drank some more. And still more. Remember the old Beavis and Butthead episodes where Beavis gets jazzed up on coffee and starts playing Cornholio? Well, that was me.
We stayed in Holualoa — where there are many fine hotels – but ours was the KonaLani, which is actually on a coffee plantation. Upon arrival, instead of the usual rum punch routine, they presented us with leis made of coffee berries! We spent an entire day touring the Kona Coffee Company, which was probably the most educational thing I did during my entire trip. I felt like we got a fairly sanitized presentation in terms of worker conditions and the like, but Kona does seem to have a genuine concern with environmentally-correct coffee production, and takes steps to preserve the soil with practices such as intercropping with rice. The farming aspect of it was all new turf for me, and it’s changed the way I think when I enjoy morning coffee, much the same as my travels in Bordeaux have changed how I appreciate wine.