The Big Island

On my last trip to Hawaii I would have been content to stay on Maui the entire time. But my friends were insistent that we journey to the Big Island, a move to which I agreed only reluctantly. I'm glad they persuaded me, because it represents Hawaii in ways that aren't captured by other island. . . .

For one thing, the Big Island is home of the only coffee crop on American soil! The locals capitalize on this fact, bombarding tourists with messages all over the island: Buy coffee! Drink coffee! Drink more coffee! Buy some and ship it home to your friends! Don’t forget your poor Aunt Clara in the nursing home! Here, have a 10-gallon cup of Kona! Drink up! Support Hawaiian coffee growers! Blah! I fell under the spell of this subtle advertising and quickly found myself in the throes of a five-day caffeine buzz.

Actually, it was the smell that got me. That rich, Kona coffee that costs about nine zillion dollars a pound gives off an aroma that’s irresistible; and the smell along justifies the price. But you don’t have to pay the shipping premium in Hawaii, so I stocked up. And drank up. And drank some more. And still more. Remember the old Beavis and Butthead episodes where Beavis gets jazzed up on coffee and starts playing Cornholio? Well, that was me.

We stayed in Holualoa — where there are many fine hotels – but ours was the KonaLani, which is actually on a coffee plantation. Upon arrival, instead of the usual rum punch routine, they presented us with leis made of coffee berries! We spent an entire day touring the Kona Coffee Company, which was probably the most educational thing I did during my entire trip. I felt like we got a fairly sanitized presentation in terms of worker conditions and the like, but Kona does seem to have a genuine concern with environmentally-correct coffee production, and takes steps to preserve the soil with practices such as intercropping with rice. The farming aspect of it was all new turf for me, and it’s changed the way I think when I enjoy morning coffee, much the same as my travels in Bordeaux have changed how I appreciate wine.

More on Maui

One of my New Year's resolutions was to stop procrastinating, and here it is January 9th already and I haven't written a real "travel post" this year. I guess I've procrastinated resolution to stop procrastinating.

I just talked to my folks a few days ago, and all the weather you've been having has spurred me into action: You might, after all, be thinking of a trip to Hawaii. So here's some more of my picks . . .

I left off in Maui, and I'll resume with the town of Kihei, located on the southwestern part of the island. I'd be remiss if I didn't point out one attraction that could havfe specific appeal for Snyderites: Makena Stables . That's right, it's a riding stable, Hawaiian style. I'm happy to report that they use American-style saddles (versus British); and while they don't expect it, no one will look askance if you don your cowboy hat. You'll get to ride all over the 20,000 acre Ulapalakua Ranch, which looks exactly like Scurry County ranches . . . only with palm trees, ocean and tropical vegetation.



Also while in Kihei, you won't want to miss "The Kams," more formally known as Kamaole Beach Parks. As the name implies, it's more than one beach -- there are three, in fact, and each of them has a distinct appeal. I found Kamaole I to be the best for people-watching and bikini-ogling, whereasa Kamaole II was better for a quiet picnic on the beach (and would be excellent for families). Kamaole III was my fave for swimming, because the waves were the strongest. It also seems to be the one most favored by locals, which is always a good sign.

Here's a run-down of some of my favorite things to do in Kihei. If you're on Maui, don't miss it!

Thanks to Giselle27 for the photo of Kamaole II.

Happy 2008!!

I'm taking a brief "vacation" from my usual travel blogging to wish everyone in Snyder a Happy 2008!!

I had thought about traveling to Texas for the holidays, but my mother informed me I'd stayed there "long enough" on my last pass through. Yeesh! Even my own mother doesn't want me around!

Seriously, it was a mutual decision that I'd stay put this year; after all, I was in Snyder only weeks before the holidays. Consequently, I spent Christmas in San Francisco, which I must admit was very nice. It was a little odd though, because there are no climactic cues to remind one of the holiday season. For some reason, Santa just doesn't seem to belong amongst the palm trees on Market Street, but there he was.

Just before the New Year, I did something that simultaneously pleased and shocked my folks: I went to church! Yes, it's true -- this sinner went to repent at Glide Memorial Church, which in theory is Methodist. It felt more like a Southern Baptist ethic though, what with all the gospel choir music and "audience participation." Maybe that's because the minister, Cecil Williams, is from San Angelo Texas. I'm not kidding.

Cleansed of my sins, I availed myself of some of the fine shopping to be had in San Francisco, ate compulsively. After all, I needed something to base my New Year's resolutions on!

Hope all you folks in Snyder have a great 2008!

Maui Wowie

When you grow tired of the glitz and hustle-bustle of Honolulu, it's time to focus on the natural beauty the islands have to offer. That, after all, is what makes Hawaii such a distictive destination in the American landscape. Mother Nature pulls out all the stops throughout the Hawaiian islands, but Maui and Kauai are my personal favorites.

On Maui, you'll likely be drawn to the major resort areas, which is fine. Last time, I stayed at the Ritz-Carlton in Kapalua, and it was gorgeous. Expensive, but worth it. And the Kapalua Bay area is fantastic, if a bit touristy. My parents stayed in Kapalua on a number of their 'fam' trips back in the '80's. They loved it, and so do I.

One of the chief selling points of the area is its proximity to other Maui destinations: It's just a short drive to Lahaina, which has some of the best beaches in all of Hawaii. It's one of the surfing capitals of the U.S., as evidenced by the hundreds of surfers that traipse through the town with their surfboards in tow. While you're there, be sure to check out the Banyan tree in the center of town. It takes up an entire city block, and is really a sight to behold.
I recommend having lunch at Cheeseburger in Paradise and ordering . . . well, I don't even have to say it now, do I? Wash down your grub with a local beer while you look out over the water and watch the surfers roll in.

Another point of interest is Paia. Not for the faint of heart, Paia bills itself as an "artist's town," which is true enough, but there's more to it than that. Within ten minutes of our arrival, we were greeted by locals offering various "herbal remedies" for whatever ailed us, along with services like hair-braiding or body-piercing. The grittiness of the town renders it a walk on the wild side; but sometimes that's just what's needed to liven things up. Besides, Paia has one of Maui's few nude beaches, which is always a draw for me.

Rainy Day Fun in Honolulu

I've pointed out the most popular attractions in Honolulu, and the majority of them are outdoors. And why shouldn't they be, given that Hawaii is one of the most beautiful places on earth?

Unlike Snyder, it tends to rain frequently in Hawaii -- on my last trip, it rained virtually every single morning, but stopped by the time we went down for breakfast. But what to do if it doesn't stop? The Hawaiian islands saw a good week's worth of storms about a month ago, so how do you entertain yourself if that contingency happens?

Luckily, Honolulu is rife with things to do that aren't sunny-weather dependent. Even if the weather is picture-perfect for your entire trip, you'll want to check these out:

Shopping: I know, I know -- you don't go to Hawaii to shop, right? You might change your position for the bargain, and I've managed to find some in Honolulu. The primary shopping venue is Ala Moana Boulevard, and it tends to be overrun with tourists. But if you pop in to the Ala Moana Center, it will not only provide a shelter from the rain, but you can find veritable steals from the likes of Armani, Banana Republic and local Hawaiian brand stores. The last time I was there, I walked away with an Armani silk shirt for $30. I kept expecting to be stopped by the police for stealing. Ala Moana frequently stages peformances of native Hawaiian dancers, so you'll get a dose of authentic "Hawaiian" while you're there.

Museums: Again, not what normally comes to mind when you think of Hawaii, but this should really be part of your vacation. The Bishop Museum is great for adults and kids alike, as it has a large focus on the flora and fauna of the islands. I've seen people actually bring in strange-looking plants for their scientists to identify, and they're happy to do it! They also document the history of the islands, including the arrival of the first missionaries and their influence on subsequent cultural development.

For more purely artistic inclinations, be sure to see the Honolulu Academy of Arts. Their special exhibitions are fantastic, and tend to focus exclusively on Hawaiian artists. They also have one of the largest collections of Oceana to be found anywhere in the world.

In addition to these, there's also the USS Bowfin Submarine, which has been made into a museum; as well as the Hawaii Maritime Center, which any Navy veteran will love. Here's a run-down of the best museums in Honolulu. Enjoy!

Thanks to Champuru and Shimown for the photos!

Over the Pond

Now that I've written about San Francisco and the wine country a bit, I've built up enough momentum to propel me over the pond to . . . (drumroll, please) Hawaii!

Back when I was at Snyder High and my folks owned the travel agency, they went to Hawaii a couple of times on "familiarization" trips that were paid for by the airlines. As the name implies, the purpose was to familiarize them with various destinations, thereby enabling them to promote and sell it more effectively. There was only one problem with these 'fam' trips: I didn't get to go!!

I finally made my virgin trip a number of years ago, and since then I've gone on another occasion. On both trips, I did my best to make up for lost time! I've got all kinds of insider tips, but I'll start out with the basics.

Presumably you'll fly into the island of Oahu, home of the city of Honolulu. Regardless of your feelings about this tourist mecca, you need to stay a few days because it's an important part of any first trip to Hawaii. If you can, book a hotel on or near famous Waikiki Beach. It costs more to stay on the beach of course, but it's worth it to wake up and see that iconic shoreline with Diamond Head in the distance. My favorite hotel is the Royal Hawaiian, also known as the "Pink Palace." On my last trip, Carol Channing was staying there with us, and we got her autograph as we left! Another popular choice in lodging is the Halekulani, which is near the very top of the luxury hotel food chain.

One of the benefits of staying on near Waikiki is its proximity to attractions that you'll want to see. Because I was born on December 7th, I felt obligated to tour Pearl Harbor, and I was glad I did. But I was also happy that I followed the suggestion of our concierge and went to Hanauma Bay, and I certainly don't regreat seeing Diamond Head. In short, there's tons to do in and around Honolulu besides lolling on the beach (which is, of course, a perfectly acceptable passtime on vacation). To save you some effort, here are some of my favorite attractions in Honolulu.

Thanks to garyhymes and photoluluguy for the photos!

La Comida Mexicana

I know I've already written about Berkeley; but Mexican food is a topic that's near to every Snyderite's heart, and I just discovered a GEM that y'all will all want to check out if you're in the Bay Area.

I have this friend in San Francisco who kidnapped me the other day, took me over the Bay Bridge, and sat me down at Mario's La Fiesta on Telegraph Avenue in Berkeley. He's been going there for thirty years and just raved about it. Being from Texas, I had low expectations, but boy-howdy was I happily surprised! They've got some of the best-tasting guacamole this side of the Colorado River, and their chiles rellenos rival those at the Spanish Inn (sorry, Papa Chon, but they do!). In California, "Mexican" typically means lots of sour cream and an emphasis on burritos, but this place was very reminiscent of the Tex-Mex I grew up eating. Only Spanish was spoken in the kitchen, which is always a good sign. And the best part? Their prices are virtually identical to those at the Spanish Inn. In other words, very inexpensive for the Bay Area.

If you're in town for more than a few days and get a hankerin', it's well worth the short drive over the bridge. Plus, it turns out there's a whole slew of good restaurants in Berkeley, so you could easily make a day trip out of it. Besides Telegraph Avenue, which is lined with all manner of shops and close to the Berkeley campus, there's also Fourth Street, which is presently all ablaze with Christmas decorations. There's lots of chi-chi shops that sell silly products at ludicrous prices (we saw a 'gnome stump' for $1,300), but there are also some one-of-a-kind stores that mere mortals can afford. I went into a lighting store that had fantastic hand-made lamps, each one unique, and not a single one over $100.

One cautionary note: Despite the zillion places to shop,acquire stuff, and spend your money, the Fourth Street shopping district seems to have only ONE public restroom, which is at Peet's Coffee. Consequently, I've come up with a plan to make my first million. You can check it out here, just don't steal my idea!

Thanks to alicewebber for the Mario's photo!